Why is all sushi in Lima just “fine”? Why is not extraordinary? Why does everything need tempura and cream cheese? And why are the sushi options always the same (it’s not because only local fish are served)?
These were the questions running through my head after every sushi meal I ate in Lima. It was never bad. But it never blew me away. The acevicheado roll was probably the most interesting flavour (I only had it once because only in one place did the chef offer to make a fresh sauce for me without the dairy – it usually has lactose, even though you’d think a mix of sushi and ceviche would be dairy-free). And the tiradito you get at ceviche places (and most sushi places) that fuses Japanese sashimi cuts of fish with a soupy sort-of-ceviche sauce (plus blended mild or hot chili pepper and up to 1/4 cup of oil per serving, though some versions have none) was generally pretty good. But it sure wasn’t sushi. In fact, in both of these dishes the point is to NOT taste the fish. Because of my intolerances (gluten and lactose) all I COULD have were the plain fish and rice (and avocado and cucumber) sushi.
And boy did I get bored. Sole is delicious, it’s true. But it’s got nothing on melt-in-your-mouth Pacific wild salmon or fatty toro or yellowtail tuna. The tuna available is maguro, and it’s…yup, fine. And the salmon is farmed Chilean. I will not even go so far as to say it’s fine, as environmentally I don’t believe it is. (Look up farmed salmon practices, and even if the fish isn’t endangered the antibiotics and hormones involved, or the fishing method of the fish used to feed the farmed fish is usually a problem for overall sustainability).
So if you’re a sustainable seafood person there are a couple of options for you, and some of the best chefs in the city know what you’re talking about, but you’re going to get bored really fast. Variety is the spice of life, and sushi.
With that in mind, Edo did fine. Service is great (though every sushi chef I met in Lima was considerate, helpful and friendly). And if you’ve got some money to burn (about $30 max for dinner, which is a lot in Lima), you’ll like it here. And if you can eat breaded and soy-drenched things (the kitchen torched rolls looked the best) and dairy and fusion-based creations, you’ll be happy. If not, get out of South America.
It’s a nice set-up, this bar. And there’s a dinner special where you get a bunch of sashimi and two rolls. It’s not outrageously priced, and you might still be hungry, but it’s not a bad deal. Above, the roll on the right is topped with something tempura and a sweet soy-based sauce. It was the favourite of the night (not mine, since I couldn’t have it. God knows everything deep-fried is delicious, though).
Speaking of deep-fried, they deep-fry entire rolls here. But it’s a really light fry, just to turn the outside golden. Another winner:
My favourite was the raw scallop sashimi, because my favourite is always the raw scallop sashimi (unless it’s not fresh. This was fresh, but not as sweet as I’ve had. At least I knew it wasn’t sprayed or coloured with anything like North American scallops often are. Don’t know if they do this in South America too to make them look juicy and glistening).
The other fish besides the scallop but in half with a lime sliver in the middle: maguro tuna, some kind of wild snapper and corvhina. The corvhina was the best of the fish. Often it’s sinewy but the cut here was good, though on the left you’ll notice that the ends are pretty scrappy.
Oh, and the other thing about sushi in Lima is that the rice is always way too sweet! They have a sugar problem here. I just hope it’s sugar-sweetened and not mirin sweetened, because nobody probably checked whether or not the mirin had wheat in it for me, and I ate a lot of that sushi rice…
I got tuna and cucumber and salmon, avocado and cucumber for my rolls. the toasted sesame seeds were great on the salmon, which was bland as per usual. you can’t get wild salmon anywhere. The rolls were very satisfying. That’s all I can say.
My personal favourite for appearance went to the seared tuna with seasoned seaweed, avocado, and what looks like asparagus and shrimp. I don’t remember, which is bad blogging form, I know. It wasn’t my roll. The texture is key, though, after all the slippery, smooth sashimi.
So, my advice: Order things involving fire and hot oil baths.
Edo Sushi
Calle Berlin 601, Miraflores, Lima (there are a bunch of other locations, including one or two in San Isidro. this one is near the Vivanda grocery store at Jose Galvez and Bolognesi, so I guess that means this Edo is at Berlin and Bolognesi)
How much: $30-$40 per person, without a pisco sour. Good sake does not exist in Peru. Don’t try to find it.
When: lunch and dinner
Leave a Reply