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The Caribbean in Summer: My New Favourite Restaurants in Aruba and Barbados

July 10, 2019 MissWattson Leave a Comment

aruba-ceviche-hadicurari-1

A week before I headed back to the Caribbean for a magazine assignment, I was interviewed on a podcast called Our Food Adventures by two Americans who called me from where they were staying in Hanoi, Vietnam to talk about what I love about Aruba. That’s a lot of continents for a conversation.

From the food to the people to the beaches to how easy it is to get around to motorcycling with an organic Aruban cigar maker across the island for mango slushes and local grouper, I love a lot of things about Aruba.

I’ve been maybe five or six times now, writing for Menu magazine, which is a free magazine available in a lot of the hotels, restaurants and even the giant Super Food grocery store next to the Blue Residences condo where I usually stay.

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A tuna-avocado salad à la niçoise at Madame Janette restaurant in Aruba

The first time I went there, I used my phone to get everywhere, which cost a fortune because it was when most Canadian cell phone carriers were just starting their per day rates travel abroad rates. This last time, I was approached to test out an international sim card from GoSim, which gave me enough data, texting and calls for a week long trip. I’d recommend it if you’re planning on going on holiday and don’t want to get charged an arm and a leg in roaming.

But on Aruba, I don’t need GPS anymore. The card was more for calling my interviewees or making reservations. Sure, I can get turned around if I’m driving through the desert terrain in the north near the old gold refinery ruins, but you’re never far from a coast, and it’s only about an hour from the west to the east. So drive until you hit water and you’ll be fine. You might even find a guy selling fresh coconut along the way.

Barbados is another story. I’m heading back there next week for another round of interviews with chefs, bartenders and restaurant owners. You drive on the left. No roads go straight. There are roundabouts everywhere. And Google maps tries to send me on to old airport runways or into ditches. But I still love it. This is why. And this. It has something to do with the tropical flowers, the Mount Gay XO and the soca music, I’m pretty sure.

It’s going to be hot and sticky. Summer is the low season, which is nice because it’s a bit quieter and relaxed, but with crop over coming up, I’m expecting a soca party. I’m also going to do some liming (I’m not sure about how to say that one: I’m going to lime? I’m going to a lime? I’m going liming?). I imagine there’s some dancing, some lounging and some rum involved, though. And maybe some macaroni pie. Not for me. But that’s actually a local delicacy. Like pudding and souse and pickled sea cat (octopus, my favourite).

It’s also the less expensive season. So to get you excited for a Caribbean vacation, here are the photos from my last trip. For tons more info and stories, listen to the Aruba episode of the Our Food Adventures podcast.

Two Fools and a Bull – My favourite meal of the trip

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This was the first appetizer (after the amuse and bread) at the chef’s table restaurant. We had 8 courses with wine pairings, sparkling wine and a digestif. It was the most slick dining experience I’ve had on the island. So. Much. Fun. Here, swordfish is marinated in a gluten free ponzu, tomate de arbol and a bunch of other things with crispy wild rice, avocado cream, vadouvan aioli and sweet pickled onions.
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Dessert: rotisserie pineapple with ice cream, tuile, passionfruit macaron and passionfruit gel
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The gluten free, dairy free version with balsamic-macerated strawberries, passionfruit sorbet, passionfruit macaron cookie without the cream and passionfruit gel

Lobby Restaurant – Aioli heaven and I don’t usually love aioli

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Seared Surinam tuna with wasabi cream, aioli and fried rice paper crisps
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Lobby restaurant’s sweet ginger ceviche with sea bass and squash
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A glass of Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2015. I don’t usually drink wine in Aruba because it’s big company imports only. Nothing organic, biodynamic or natural in these parts. But I’ll make an exception for some of the top shelf options like this, available by the glass at Lobby.
aruba-mediterranean-sea-bass-lobby-restaurant
Grilled sea bass at Lobby with seasonal Dutch asparagus (it’s a former Dutch colony) and some Dijon-jus reduction.

Madame Janette – A classic that’s only getting better

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Lamb rack with Cognac demi glace at fried carrot strings at Madame Janette
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Ceviche and a view at Madame Janette. I love this ceviche. Sweet potato in a lime and orange leche de tigre.

The incredible rum selection at Oak Restaurant

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Too bad Oak doesn’t have a drinks menu, but just point at the bottle you want.

Water’s Edge Restaurant: Highly underrated

aruba-water's-edge-restaurant-harold-ceviche
Chef Harold does a deconstructed version of a Peruvian ceviche with crunchy corn and a wedge of sweet potato. The fish was plentiful and incredibly fresh. No vinegar in that leche, thank goodness.
aruba-waters-edge-restaurant-local-grouper
The best local fish of my trip! The grouper was so fresh and plump that it still had a little elasticity under its succulent top skin. Most places overcook fish on Aruba. Not here. The zucchini and asparagus underneath were the best imports around, since the restaurant doesn’t order in by the shipping container. When you do it that way, the food sits around waiting for the container to be full. Instead, they fly it in as needed. More expensive, but fresher.

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