For the second part of my “Not Your Grandma’s Preserves” series coming out tomorrow on Fine Dining Lovers, I feature a recipe for blueberry aigre-doux, adapted from “Preervation Kitchen.” Aigre-doux (canned sweet and sour, wine-sauced berries) deserve a come back, and this recipe is a great use for them. You simply roast the brined fish and then pour over the sauce. I originally tried roasting the fish in the sauce but all the liquid that comes out of the fish dilutes the aigre-doux, whicih is a shame. Better to pour it on undiluted afterward. The fish won’t dry out, so don’t worry about roasting it sauce-less.
Turbot is my black cod replacement. It costs about $20/lb less than the gorgeous fish flown in from Alaska. It’s local and is currently in season. Get it fresh instead of defrosted, if possible. I bought a bunch and froze it in approximately 2 lb quantities in freezer-safe bags. If I had more freezer space I’d stock up for the fall…
It’s generally more sustainable and much more flavourful than Atlantic cod you’ll find in stores. The texture is buttery, which is something you’ll never get out of a North American sole or tilapia fillet. So the only true replacement is black cod, which costs a fortunate year round. The brining brings out the buttery flavour. Don’t skip it! Start it at least an hour in advance.
Blueberry Aigre-Doux on Buttery, Brined Sustainable Quebec Turbot
3-4 fillets turbot (use black cod if turbot isn’t available)
1 tbsp salt
2 tbsp sugar (or honey)
1 cup boiling water
1 cup ice cubes
1 250mL jar blueberry aigre-doux (recipe from Fine Dining Lovers)
Some kind of green to garnish (sprouts, parsley, tarragon, or nothing. I used fenugreek because I happened to have it)
Dissolve salt and sugar in 1 cup boiling water. Stir in ice cubes until brine is cool to the touch. Remove any undissolved ice cubes. Pour over turbot fillets in a large bowl or plastic bag and place in fridge for at least a hour, but 4 if you have the time. Even 8 is good, but cut back on the salt and sugar if you go over 4.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove fish from brine and bake in an ovenproof dish for 10 minutes, until fish flakes easily. It’s difficult to overcook this fish, and because of the brining it’s difficult to undercook it. I love forgiving fish.
Meanwhile reheat the blueberry aigre-doux in a small saucepan. Place fish on plates and pour blueberry aigre-doux over top. Sprinkle with optional herb. Or serve on a bed of wilted spinach or other green. Serve a little of the aigre-doux on the side to sip for an intense follow up to each bite…
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