First, a note: Don’t get scared off by anchovies. The fish flavour isn’t strong. Mostly it’s just there to add salt and…depth? Try it and you’ll understand. It’s the “umami” of the dish. The lemon zest completely overwhelms it. Imagine that it was called “Lemon Vinaigrette with Depth.” Then think of it as the Miss America of salad dressings. Then laugh.
Sugar snap peas are not snow peas. They’re not regular shelling peas, either, but you can use them as such. It’s a waste, though. You can eat all of them, not just the peas inside. The shells (minus the strings that reach from tip to tip that you probably want to pull out) are mildly sweet, watery, and crunchy. The peas are chewy and even sweeter and juicier. They’re a perfect snack all on their own, but combined with a lemon dressing, they sing (better than Miss You-know-who). In French they’re called “pois mange-tout,” I think (though these may also refer to snow peas for stir-fries), which is more a description of what you can do with them (eat all of them – the pea and the shell) than a description of what they are and do (sugar and snap). Let diners use their fingers to eat the peas. It turns a refined salad into BBQ fare, but saves you the hassle of removing the tough tips.
Sugar Snap Pea and Red Pepper Salad with Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette
Serves 4 as a generous appetizer
1 1/2 cups sugar snap peas
1 red pepper, thinly sliced
1 small head of lettuce of your choice (red and oak leaf are pretty, but Boston or even romaine work fine)
Dressing
3 tbsp olive oil or sunflower oil
Zest of 1 lemon (or 2 if you really love lemon)
4 anchovies (buy them in a bottle preserved in olive oil if possible, but from a tin is fine. Try to not buy the type preserved in brine since it will affect the flavour of the vinaigrette. Olive oil, sunflower oil or water are best)
1 clove garlic, mashed or minced
2 tbsp red wine vinegar (or white wine vinegar. I even used peach vinegar once, which is great if you happen to have it, but who has peach vinegar?)
freshly ground pepper to taste
Directions
Chop and/or tear salad ingredients and place in large bowl.
In a small saucepan combine oil and lemon zest. Mince anchovies and garlic or mash in a mortar and pestle. Add to saucepan. Heat over medium heat just until it almost boils, then remove from heat and add the vinegar and pepper.
Toss with salad ingredients while vinaigrette is still warm. Serve immediately.
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