Chipotle & Jalapeño: 2 for 1 Margaritas and a Killer Lunch Table D’Hôte

There are three things that Montrealers love:

1. Happy Hour
2. Tacos
3. Terrasses

Not necessarily in that order. You could also argue that they love tartare, but I feel that’s more about nostalgia than dopamine.

If you put those three things together, you get Chipotle & Jalapeño, a Mexican place on Beaudry in the Village, which does a great lunch service, especially since a couple other cute restaurants on the street have recently shut down (no more gelato for me). Actually, the strip just north of de Maisonneuve stands out like a sore thumb in the slow-to-gentrify area (Peter Sergakis would be happy if it sped up a bit, since he owns about half the neighbourhood’s real estate). As it stands now, though, go a block in any direction and you see a wealth of homeless people (the irony is intentional), sex shops and dilapidated apartments.

Things straighten up a little (yes, another pun) in summer when rue Ste-Catherine becomes pedestrian only and the gay village is clearly indicated by its rainbow streamers and heaps of friendly and gay-friendly tourists enjoying the sunshine.

But Beaudry is a year-round oasis, with a cute South American café with dulce de leche-filled alfajores and savoury treats, a laptop-friendly coffee bar, one of the city’s best designer boutiques complete with upstairs atelier – all rounded out with this family-run Mexican restaurant serving up two-meals of chicken tortilla soup with crispy fried 100% corn strips, sour cream and cheese followed by homemade chicken molé, enchiladas verde baked with a tomatillo salsa and Valenciana fish, all for about $17.

And that Valenciana fish. It’s a filet of white fish, probably tilapia, wrapped decoratively around a stew of onions, tomatoes, garlic, green olives and other vegetables reminiscent of a ratatouille. It comes with a mound of paprika-hewed Mexican rice with a green salad in a sweet vinaigrette. There isn’t a hint of heat to it, which suits most Montrealers just fine, but you can ask for some homemade salsa (or beg the owner to open a bottle of the whole chipotles for sale in the boutique upstairs) to spice things up.

Those enchiladas? They’re better than the $13 chorizo quesadillas (more fillings, more sauce) and almost as good as the $16 chicken fajitas (which come with fresh, tangy guacamole and that chipotle salsa).

There are actually no traditional tacos, but the fajitas come with soft shell tortillas for the build-your-own experience.

And thank goodness Montrealers are allowed to drink at lunch, because that frozen lime or tamarind margarita ($7.50) is worth it and will have you smiling (or sleeping) for the rest of the afternoon. There’s also sangria, but you don’t get the salt rim…

Anyone prone to naps, however, should come for happy hour when the margaritas will be 2 for 1 once the terrasse opens for the season.  That’s the cheapest buzz for quality booze around.

Or come for dinner, when the $27 tasting menu ($48 for two) comes with a selection of small appetizers, soup, salad and your choice of three entrées, including pulled pork in orange and achiote, three types of molé (verde with pumpkin seeds and tomatillos, red with peanuts and sesame, and the most famous variation: poblano with nuts, dried peppers and chocolate).

Bring tupperware.

Brunchers rejoice with plates of spicy egg burritos, crispy fried chilaquiles or tamales stuffed with mole.

Vegetarians take note: there are lots of options for you, including the hard-to-find dish of huitlacoche mushrooms with poblano peppers and fresh cheese. For vegans, options are fewer, but tacos of sautéed vegetables, a side of guac and a margarita will leave you satisfied.

And gluten free-ers are in the clear! All the tortillas except the wheat ones for the burritos are gluten free – even the fried ones in the homemade tortilla soup with its rich, red broth dotted with slurpable, savoury oil.

And the best part is there’s no MSG and a whole lot less grease and lard than your average affordable Mexican place. How many times have you left a cheap Mexican place and been downing water for the rest of the day (or had a headache or quickened pulse and irritation)? It’s a natural additive that gets snuck in to rice blends, sauces and beans and it tastes amazing. Most people will feel no effect, and plenty of chefs and scientists say it’s fine for anyone who doesn’t have an all-out allergy to it, but my (and maybe your) body says otherwise.

So cheers to homemade Mexican that will fill you up without the fast food crash. The worst thing that could happen is a nap.