Two Articles on Fine Dining Lovers: 82 Degree Sous Vide Salted Caramel and Centrifuged Fig Juice

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Two of my articles on cooking up a storm at the Modernist Cuisine Lab in Bellevue, Washington came out recently on Fine Dining Lovers.

82 Degree Sous Vide Salted Caramel

Centrifuged Fig Juice

Hate double boilers? Love caramel? Think immersion circulators are the bees knees? Me too. That’s why I wrote about making salted caramel easy. 82 degrees. Subjectively perfect.

Maybe the only thing better than salted caramel on vanilla bean pacojet-ized ice cream is pure, clean fig juice. Good luck making it with a juicer, though. In my second article I use a centrifuge to rip it into seeds, butter and juice. Please read all about and then share it on facebook or twitter or whatever way you choose to show the world that your opinions matter.

They do. At least I think so.

My First Garden – Step 1

I might have mentioned I have a community garden plot. It’s as though I won the lottery. Except there’s a lot more work and a lot less money involved. Here’s what it looked like when I first went to my plot, gardening gloves in hand, to take account of what would have to be done:

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A little bit of work to do…a lot of dead branches and old plants – I ave no idea what kinds – so I decided to pull it all up. It was a kind of lottery, really, not knowing what I was inheriting. Were there strange Indian amaranth plants that want to shoot up to the sky? They’re illegal in the garden above a certain height, by the way. Or herbs that wouldn’t pair with my garden plan? I’d mapped out what I wanted to do with the land. A line of tomatoes next to basil and parsley. Arugular, peppers, peas, okra (if I could find it), sorrel, cauliflower, broccoli, thyme, marigolds (for bees), chard, lettuce, eggplant.

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And it all had to somehow start from this. So I cleared the plot completely, learning for a 70-year old man who decided this young whippersnapper could use a hand how to dip it with a three-pronged fork and rotate it as I put it out of the soil, turning it without going too deep into the ancient earth. Probably ancient as in 1990′s (which, no, is not older than me), but still fairly experienced, this soil. He said don’t worry about the whispy branches. Just turn them into the soil. They’ll be fine. I was trying to pick out all the big rocks and anything that didn’t seem conducive to growing veg, but he was pretty laissez-faire about it.

Then he helped me turn in the compost provided by the city, grabbing the shovel he said was no good because it was too tall and using it himself so I could use the proper, shorter, pronged fork.

I also inherited a bunch of tomato structures and a mini fence that I’m going to try to use for peas if they come up.

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And I inherited some lumber, which I’m using to separate the garden into 4 sections. I’m eye-balling the cross-ways divide. I do a lot of balance beam work, trying to walk across only the beams. the smaller ones are trickier…I should get more wood. Maybe the woman whose garden is next to mine will give me some from the pile she leaves in the aisle that I keep tripping over…poor garden etiquette. Even I know that. I attended a meeting…

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And then I went to Jean-Talon market and bought 8 bags of soil, fertilizer from organic chicken manure (goodness knows what the chickens ate, though…), and some plants. I transplanted some and am starting some cilantro and black mint from seed. The mint won’t go in the garden because it’s invasive. That’s a balcony plant. The others will go in May 25th, though the parsley is in already and I planted peas. I also killed the sorrel I’m pretty sure. Too much wind and sun, I think.

Hope I can keep the rest of this alive…

 

Hungry? One More Day to Check out the “Salon J’ai Faim”

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Homemade marshmallows, yuzu soda, private chefs, gluten-free, dairy-free dream-worthy chocolate cherry-vanilla frosted cupcakes, buttery, glutenous cupcakes, mixed spiced nuts, duck and rabbit rillettes, $32 green apple-balsamic vinegar, seaweed fertilizer and worm castings for your garden, farm-to-restaurant online ordering, moka frozen yogurt, Jamaican patties, donuts, better-than-fairtrade dark chocolate from Vietnam…what did I miss? All this and more for one more day at Montreal’s Salon J’ai Faim from 11am to 6pm, Sunday May 19th at Église-Saint-Enfant-Jesus-du-Mile-End.

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Don’t know where the church is? It’s Laurier and St-Laurent. Officially, Saint-Dominique. Behind some swinging benches/park furniture. There’s a big sign outside. It’s where the Marché Fermier happens starting June 17th, 2013. If you don’t see the big sign you’re blind. Bring a friend with eyes. You’ll get there. Thank said friend by buying him or her a homemade mango marshmallow.

You remember these marshmallows from the Souk in the Quartier des Spectacles last Festival Juste Pour Rire (Just for Laughs for anglos). Except now you can them them half dipped in chocolate. And there are still a ton of homemade macarons if you haven’t had enough sugar yet.

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Clockwise from top left: Chocolate cupcake with brownie bite, strawberry cupcake, chocolate cupcake with vanilla frosting and addictive cherries (my name, not theirs), chocolate espresso, chocolate caramel, vanilla-maple, raspberry-lime.

But you’re going to want to save that sugar rush for Almond Butterfly. I’m not even going to tell you it’s gluten-free because you’d never know by tasting it. Well, maybe the maple cupcake because the cake is a bit granular, but not the raspberry-lime buttercream, which is to die for. And the heartbreakingly swoon-worthy chocolate cupcake with chocolate caramel frosting. Coffee addicts choose the espresso version that looks like cookies and cream. It’s not. It’s better. I guess I need to justify that hyperbolic swoon-worthy comment: The chocolate cake base is so creamy. Melody the baker says it’s from the apple cider vinegar and cocoa. It’s a different flour bled than the others. She used mostly almond, coconut and rice flours. And there’s no soy. Some use oil and some use soy-free earth balance. The frostings are earth balance. If it gets sticky in the basement of the church your friend found for you, the cupcake icing may melt a little, but it’ll be gloop-tacular. That’s not a word, but it should be.

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$3.50 a cupcake or something around $13.50 for 4. Totally worth it. Sampling anything you want before you try it feels like cheating because it’s all so good.

They also do a homemade dairy-free caramel. $5 a small jar (125mL), $8 for 250mL I think. And there are cookies and giant brownies.

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I’m telling you though, chocolate caramel or chocolate cherry cupcakes all the way. Raspberry-lime if you’re not into chocolate.

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Before your teeth fall out, move on to vinegar instead of sugar. Pickles and homemade soda from Savouré. These guys were at another Expo in the same space last fall. The beets have tarragon in them, which makes them taste like sweet black licorice. They have some new soda flavours, too, one of which has grapefruit and tarragon, which tastes again a lot like citrus black licorice. Geranium, rose and yuzu is refreshing. Try little samplers and then buy a large drink to oxidize the remaining sugar from your poor teeth.

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Then it’s on to two of my favourite urban gardeners. Urban Seedlings does entire garden installations, and they’ll take care of your garden for the season if you want. They use heirloom varieties of seeds they’ve started themselves (it’s a bit late to start some of their seeds but not all, and you can buy the seeds at the booth) and sell as seedlings. They have a bunch of gorgeous tomato seedlings for sale. To go with it, eco-friendly kelp fertilizer and worm castings. Healthy soil = delicious vegetables.

Provender is also on hand. The new start-up is a online link between farmers and restaurants. Restaurants go online, view the directory of vegetables and fruits available at different farms around Montreal, and order directly from them using the online ordering system. The farm delivers straight to the restaurant, putting it in touch with the chefs. Farm-to-table, banquette, or bar stool. It’s not just for high end restaurants and it’s keeping big distributors with international goods out of restaurants by making local eating (and purchasing) more convenient.

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Where to next? Toasted nuts. This lady at Chef à Votre Service is pretty exceptional. Tossed in olive oil, and freshly home-blended spices, there’s a little bit a tandoori, sweet and salty flavour to her mixed stack of high quality walnuts, pecans, almonds, corn, and dried fruit. You could live on those pecans and walnuts. But then you’d miss out on dark chocolate from Madagascar and Vietnam. The bars at Miss Choco are better than fairtrade because they’re direct to farmer. That means that the farmer makes more money since there’s no middle man. They’re small plantations, not big, scary West African plantations known for child labour and sketchy ecological practices.

Who cooks? Qui cuisine? That would be private chef Cristèle, a graduate of the diploma program at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts in Vancouver, known for its devotion to local, seasonal cooking. There’s a lot to be said for French tradition, but any school that teaches about seafood sustainability and doesn’t put an out-of-season ground cherry or expensive, starchy fresh fig on a dinner plate is exceptional.

And so is Christèle. She’ll drive to your house and prepare you a week of food. Or she’ll teach you how to cook in her at-your-home classes.

Cooking classes are everywhere it seems, with another affordable option for Indian food coming from the recently launched Cook Caravan. Inspired by their travels through Southeast Asia and obsession with spices (The chef? Guillaume Lozeau, was formerly employed by one of the city’s most respected spice importing companies), this team is all about authenticity in their bhel puri and channa masala. Speaking of the Indian puffed rice dish with chickpeas, red onion, tomatoes, a spice blend called “chaat” and a mix of coriander, tamarind and hot pepper chutneys (all oil-free), their booth is set up for you to assemble your own. Removing the bamboo hat reveals a wheel of fortune of ingredients you toss into a paper cone. In India this is street food and it’s served in newspaper, like French fries in England or a certain high end eatery in Toronto. Classes are booked at your convenience, they bring everything to your home, explain the ingredients, and get you blending, toasting, chopping, smelling, and finally eating.

Fine herbs. There’s a lady who blends herbs from her garden (Les Jardins de Marichat). One blend without salt, one with. There’s bison carpaccio from Les Affamés. There’s coffee from Dispatch and Jura. There are la Muffinerie’s finest marvels matinales. There are handmade maple and walnut cutting boards I wish I could afford from Planète Créations. And there’s a selection of balsamic vinegars and olive oils from Maison le Bourdet (plus some quality rillettes and patés – all pork free) that are pretty darn good and very darn pricey. Good for a taste though. And perfect on top of a scoop of frozen yogurt from on top of the stage (

Other notables include Sweet Lee’s Rustic Bakery, who will soon be opening a storefront smack in the middle of rue Wellington in Verdun! Savoury scone and white chocolate chip cookie lovers, rejoice!

I’m sorry to say I missed a bunch of great companies with delicious and artistic things. Not everything is food here but clearly I have my priorities. So should you. One of them should be to come here on Sunday before all the raspberry-lime cupcakes are gone…

Oh, and if you’ve got kids, there are workshops with building vegetables for them. And a bunch of other presentations. As usual, I was just there for the cupcakes.

Salon J’ai Faim
Eglise Saint-Enfant-Jesus-du-Mile-End
5035 St-Dominique
$5, or $10 with three coupons for spoon-sized snacks from Les Affamés, which is ironic. The starving people serving tiny portions. Who thought of that?

 

Stuffed Eggplant with Sweet Potatoes, Cauliflower and Lemon

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This recipe is inspired by the only organic chef in Lima, Peru.

He serves something like this but with lentils at the Bioferia organic market every Saturday in the Parque Reducto. This has a bit less olive oil, making it less heavy, but just enough to bring out the sweetness of the sweet potato and char the cauliflower. I served it as the appetizer at a dinner party, slicing the eggplant halves into four  or five 2″ slice. You could also eat it as a main course, or a very large side dish.

Stuffed Eggplant with Sweet Potatoes, Cauliflower and Lemon

2 large eggplants
1/2 cauliflower
1 small sweet potato or yam
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp olive oil, divided
Half a lemon

Preheat oven to 375F. You’ll need two baking sheets. First, slice the eggplants in half. Brush the cut sides with 1 tsp of the oil, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and place cut side down on a baking sheet. Place in oven for about 25-30 minutes. Meanwhile, chop the cauliflower into small 1/2″ pieces, even the stem. Do the same with the peeled sweet potato. Toss with 2 tsp olive oil and the salt. Spread on the second baking sheet. Place on a second rack in oven for 15 minutes.

After 15 minutes remove cauliflower and sweet potato and turn over. Replace in oven for 5-10 more minutes, until soft. Remove from oven and scrape into a bowl with most of the parsley (reserve a sprinkle for garnish) and the juice of half a lemon.

The eggplant should be done sometime around now (it depends how long it took you to cut the sweet potato and cauliflower), so remove it from the oven and turn over. Let cool a few minutes, then scoop out about 1/2 cup of the flesh, being careful not to tear the skin. Reserve flesh for snacking later…or eat right away.

Fill half scooped out eggplant with roasted vegetable and parsley mixture. Return to oven for 5 minutes to warm. Sprinkle with more parsley to garnish.

Variations: add diced olives, sundried tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, or cooked lentils to the mix before reheating. Or roast carrots, zucchini, fennel or other vegetables along with the cauliflower and sweet potato.

Stuffed Acorn Squash with Maple Syrup, Lemon and Pecans

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Sorry for the tardiness in getting recipes up lately. I’ve been busy testing recipes for an article on cooking with kids for Alive Magazine. From a list of over fifty I whittled the options down to ten, and I’ve been busy testing them. This one did not make the cut, not because it’s not a great recipes, but because it’s a little too long, complicated, and not so kid-friendly. First you bake the squash, then sauté the fillings, add this now, wait, add that later, then stuff the squash, then re-bake then sprinkle with pecans and bake more. That’s a lot of steps – not exactly fix-it-and-forget-it..

Not that it has to be, but simpler and shorter is usually better, especially when you want kids to be (and stay) involved and interested. And the main kid-friendly step – stuffing the squash – is tricky because the filling is hot. So you have to wait for it to cool before it’s safe to stuff.

So, kids’ loss is your gain. Where you would have had to wait until September to get this recipe if it was published, now you can have it right away. Hurray!

Stuffed Acorn Squash with Maple Syrup, Lemon and Pecans

2 acorn squash
1 small sweet potato, peeled and diced
2 carrots, peel and diced
1 red onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
½ tsp salt, divided
1 zucchini, diced
¼ cup sulfite-free dried cranberries or diced dried apricots
¾ tsp dried thyme
3 tbsp pecans
2 ¼ tsp olive oil, divided
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
¼ cup organic low sodium vegetable broth
3 tbsp maple syrup, divided
Juice of 1 lemon, divided

Cut in half, scoop out seeds. Place cut side down on baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake at 400F for 20 minutes. Toss diced sweet potato with 1 tsp olive oil and 1/4 tsp salt. Scatter around squash on baking sheet. Return to the oven for 10 minutes more. Remove from oven and remove squash from baking sheet to a plate. Let cool cut-side up. Brush cut side with a mixture of 1 tsp lemon juice, 1 tbsp maple syrup and a pinch of salt.

Remove sweet potato to a large bowl. Try not to eat it all now.

Heat large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add 1 tsp olive oil then add onion, carrot, and celery. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat if vegetables begin to stick. Add 1 tbsp of water if necessary.

Add apple cider vinegar and 1/4 tsp salt and raise heat to medium-high. Cook 3 minutes, stirring frequently.  Add vegetable broth. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and cook for 15 minutes. Stir in zucchini to coat, and remove from heat.

Pour into large bowl with the sweet potato. Add 1 tbsp lemon juice, dried cranberries, and thyme. Stir to combine. Let cool 10 minutes.

Return squash cut side up to baking sheet lined with a new piece of parchment paper. Wash hands and fill each squash half with handfuls of the filling. If the squash overflow it’s fine because the excess filling should be placed around the squash on baking sheet anyway. Bake at 400F for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with pecans. Bake 8 more minutes, until pecans are toasted.

Remove from oven and sprinkle with 2 tbsp maple syrup and remaining lemon juice.

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How to Sear Fish

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Not the prettiest fillets, but the fish was small. The fish guy did a whole lot better than I would have…

Searing fish is about breathing. You have to turn the heat to high and place those fillets in enough oil, set a timer for 2 minutes…and then walk away.

Just do it. Do something else. Pretend the fish isn’t there for a whole two minutes. Smoke is rising, fire alarms might go off, things are crackling, but the fish’s cries need to fall upon your deaf ears.

Then flip it over, cover the pan, reduce the heat finally, and set another timer for somewhere between 2 and 7 minutes depending on the type and thickness of fish.

Remove to plate. Serve. Smile. Thank me. And mostly thank Becky Selengut, who taught me this valuable lesson.

Seared Mackerel

Note: mackerel from some places caught in some ways is apparently no longer OceanWise certified. Check to make sure it’s sustainable before buying. Your local fishmonger should know. If he/she doesn’t, go somewhere else.

1 tbsp high-heat oil (canola, vegetable, grapeseed, coconut)
4 mackerel fillets (have the fishmonger fillet it as it’ll be fresher this way. You can also buy pre-cut fillets. Either with or without skin is fine. If you buy the whole fish save the head and tail and bones for fish stock. It’s great with leeks.
sprinkle of salt and pepper

Season trout with salt and pepper o both sides. Heat oil in large skillet (preferably cast-iron) over high heat. Add fish skin side down (if there’s skin) without crowding pan (do two at a time if necessary). Do not reduce heat. Breathe. Set a timer for 2 minutes. The fish should release from the pan when the fillet is browned. That is not always the case, however, depending on the pan…

Flip fish over, reduce heat to medium low, cover skillet, and cook 5 minutes or until fish is cooked through. It should be opaque and flake easily. Or be just before the flaking stage.

Bad Grasshoppers, and Sweet and Sour Pad Thai-Style Pasta with Cabbage

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All you need is balance.

No, I’m not feeling particularly philosophical today. I am, however, hungry. For Thai. Specifically, gelatinous noodles coated in a creamy, salty, sweet, sour sauce.

Want to know a secret? It’s easy. It’s my go-to, last minute, bad grasshopper, “I haven’t thought about what to make for dinner and my house is empty” meal. The base is any kind of noodles: thick Pad Thai-style rice noodles, spaghetti, linguine, macaroni, penne – whatever you have. Then you add some kind of vegetable if you’ve got it, to dilute those sugars with some fibre. That could be thinly sliced carrot, onion, peppers, zucchini, eggplant chunks, seaweed, kale, swiss chard, spinach, arugula, parsnip…seriously, anything. They all need to cook different amounts of time, if at all (arugula, spinach and any other wilters), but when you really want pasta without the sugary carbs, there’s a trick.

There’s a recipe in “Beyond the Great Wall” for sautéed cabbage strands and it’s my favourite pasta replacement. The cabbage cooks down to almost soft, almost al dente. And you chew and chew and it’s not crunchy but it’s not mush either. And you end up eating SO much cabbage and loving it. Weird, right? Well, it’s all about the sauce. If you coat it in an addictive sauce you’ll never want to stop eating cabbage.

So this recipe is a mix of cabbage and pasta, since I wanted real noodles (well, gluten-free spaghetti – is that still real?) but also some crunch and colour. And boy did I get colour. The whole dish turns purple! It’s gorgeous! Kids might even like it, for goodness sake. Except it smells a little like cabbage. So maybe not. What do I know about kids?

Just try this recipe. It’s a bit like Pad Thai but way healthier.

Sweet-and-Sour Pad Thai-Style Pasta with Cabbage

1/2 package spaghetti noodles (I used gluten-free brown rice spaghetti)
2 tsp peanut oil, or other high heat oil (canola, vegetable, coconut)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 purple cabbage, sliced into thin strips
3 tbsp water, or broth

Sauce:
1/2 cup sieved tamarind (from a golf ball-sized knob of tamarind pulp soaked in 1/2 cup hot water for 30 minutes and pressed through a sieve to remove the fibres. Or 1/2 cup tamarind concentrate. Or 1/2 cup chopped rhubarb)
1/2 cup fish sauce (or gluten-free tamari or soy sauce)
1/2 cup palm sugar or unrefined cane sugar (or 1/3 cup brown sugar, or 1/3 cup white sugar + 2 tsp molasses)
2 tsp chili powder, or 1/2 – 1 fresh chili pepper, stemmed and optionally de-seeded

1 lime, to garnish

Directions
Combine sauce ingredients in a blender. Blend until smooth. Pour into a small saucepan and heat over medium heat. Stir to melt the sugar. When it comes to a simmer, adjust the balance to taste (more chili pepper – diced or blended with a little water – more tamarind paste, more fish sauce, more sugar). Remove pot from heat and set aside. It’s better to err on the side of mild for now since you can add more chili pepper slices or flakes at the table, but do as you wish. It’s a meal, not a dictatorship.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add noodles. Cook until al dente, about 8 minutes for my brown rice noodle spaghetthi. If using Pad Thai style thin white rice noodles, soak only in hot water. Don’t oversoak (or boil) or they’ll get mushy and fall apart. Once the noodles of whatever kind are al dente drain them and leave in the colander until ready to use. If they dry too much in the colander return them to hot water before using.

Heat a large wok or pot over high heat until very hot, to the point of smoking. Add the oil, then the garlic. Stir vigorously for 10 seconds. Add the cabbage. Stir 1 minute. Add 3 tbsp water (or broth) plus 2 tbsp of the Pad Thai sauce. Stir to coat cabbage. Cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook 5-8 minutes, or until cabbage is soft enough that you want to eat it like noodles. Add the drained rice noodles and almost all the remaining sauce. Stir to coat noodles. If the sauce evaporates too quickly and the pan starts to dry out add a few tbsp of water or chicken broth.

Serve with lime. Don’t eat it all. That’s a lot of cabbage and a lot of noodles.

 

Baked or Poached Egg and Carrot-Cauliflower Hash

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I loved this dish because it’s quick and easy and made with a few things that happen to be in the fridge. If these are items that don’t happen to be in your fridge, roast something else. Easy as that.

Onions, potatoes, broccoli, green beans, parsnips, yams – all very roast-able.

Poached Egg with Carrot-Cauliflower Hash

1 cauliflower, cut in half and then florets cut into thin slices lengthwise, stem diced
5 carrots, peeled and diced
2 tsp olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
4 eggs

Toss cauliflower with carrots, oil and salt. Toss in some thyme or other spices if you want. I didn’t.

Spread on baking sheet in a single layer and roast at 350 F for 15 minutes. Turn over cauliflower pieces and stir diced stem and carrots. Make 4 holes in the middle of the vegetables. Crack eggs into holes and return to oven for 10 minutes, or until egg is set to your preferred level of doneness and vegetables are softened and well roasted. I like the yolk runny, because you can break it and turn it into a sauce for roasted vegetables.

You could do something with parsley here, such as sprinkling it. I didn’t. You could also poach the egg separately, but why waste a pot?

 

Wild Arctic Char Chirashizushi: Scattered fish on sushi rice with homemade pickled ginger

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This is what you do with leftover sashimi. You don’t eat it raw since it’s not as fresh and safe the day after. That would be like challeging the anti-microbials in the soy sauce and wasabi to a duel. At least if your immune system is as sketchy as mine has been known to be.

So you take your leftover sushi rice, sprinkle it with toasted sesame seeds and plunk it in the microwave (yes! The microwave) on a covered plate for 1 minute. then you add a scattering of any leftover uncooked fish (or cooked. That’s fine too, but go easy on the cooking time or it’ll turn into rubber. Not enough isn’t safe, but too much is awful) and head for 1 more minute on high. Check it after 30 seconds and turn the pieces over. Sprinkle with seaweed flakes to garnish (optional) and serve with a soy dipping sauce mixed with a little wasabi (I often dilute it with rice vinegar in a 3:1 soy:vinegar ratio) and homemade pickled ginger. Nothing fancy. But oh so delicious.If you don’t have leftover and are cooking from scratch, here’s the recipe. I your fish is sashimi quality, eat it raw with fresh sushi rice and ginger, but this is also a quick way make cooked sushi, by either microwaving the sashimi slices or searing them in a pan for only a few seconds per side (it’s not really what most people would call “sushi” anymore, though…). Feel free to side this with cucumber batons and sliced avocado for deconstructed cucumber-avocado sushi too.

Wild Arctic Char Chirashizushi: Scattered fish on sushi rice with homemade pickled ginger

2 cups sushi rice (sushi rice is a short-grain rice that turns sticky when you cook it. You can find it at most grocery stores and all Asian specialty grocers)
1 three-inch square piece of kombu (green, thick dried kelp also available at most grocery stores)
1 tbsp sake, optional
2 cups cold water

1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tbsp sugar
1 1/2 tsp salt

1/4 lb Arctic char or sustainable salmon or trout, cut into thin sashimi slices
2 tbsp seaweed flakes to garnish, optional

“From Scratch” Directions (Sushi leftover recipe to follow): Bring the rice vinegar, water and sugar to a boil in a small pot over medium heat. Squeeze as much liquid from the ginger as you can and place the ginger in the sterilized jars. Stir the pot on the stove to dissolve the sugar. Remove from heat and pour over ginger so it’s completely covered (use a funnel if you have one so this is less messy, or pour the liquid first into something with a pouring spout). If you’re using a canning jar place the lid on and screw on the ring band (not too, too far). If using a regular jar just place the lid on and tighten loosely. When cool, store in the fridge for at least 4 hours. It keeps about 2 weeks.

Wasabi powder (mixed with a few drops of water and let stand 5 minutes until solid) or paste.

2 tsp sushi soy sauce or tamari (sushi soy sauce is a lighter soy than, say, most Chinese cooking soy sauces or other Japanese soy sauces)
1 tsp unseasoned rice vinegar

Directions:
1. Soak 2 cups of sushi rice in cold water. Carefully swirl it around with your hand until the rice is cloudy. Drain it (I drain it in the saucepan in which I plan to cook the rice and use a little fine-meshed sieve to catch any escaping grains), and soak it again in more cold water. Swirl, drain, soak. Repeat at least 3 times or until the rice water is clear. You should do this with most polished white rices to remove the starch (Basmati, Jasmine, and any long-grain whites that aren’t in a little sterile plastic American package).

2. Add 2 cups cold water to the drained rice.

3. LET IT SIT FOR 30 MINUTES (but only if you have the time. It’s supposed to make the rice fluffier but you probably won’t notice unless you’re a sushi rice expert)

4. Add the square piece of kombu to the soaked rice, cover it, and set it over medium heat (or in a rice cooker. Oh I wish I had a rice cooker). You can also add a tbsp or two of sake if you happen to have any. Personally I seem to always be out…

5. Bring the rice to a boil over medium heat. When it simmers, cover it, and reduce the heat to low for 15 minutes.

6. Now cut your Arctic char into sashimi slices, cutting on a diagonal toward the end of the fish, as though you were shaving off thin slices. You can also chop 1/2 a cucumber now if you have it/want to. Purists will remove the skin and seeds and make the sticks exactly the same thickness. I say chop them however you like. Same with the optional 1/4 of an avocado.

The Fancy (proper) Rice Way: After 15 minutes reduce the heat on the rice to its lowest point for 5 minutes. Turn up the heat for 7 seconds to remove last remaining excess water from bottom of pot (this only works on a gas range). Turn off the heat, remove from the burner, and let it sit, covered, for 15 minutes.

The Easy Way: Reduce the heat to its lowest point for 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

After the 15 minutes (or immediately if you have more important things to do with those 15 minutes plus 7 seconds of your life) and use a spoon or spatula dipped in a half and half mix of rice vinegar and water to gently release the entire mould of rice from the saucepan into a large flat dish (traditional). Or leave it in the pot (this keeps you more sane). Mix together the 1/4 cup rice vinegar, sugar and salt, and slow drizzle over the rice. Stir the rice gently (presumably with a wooden rice paddle while fanning with your other hand or with the help of a sushi assistant. Who has one of those?) until all the vinegar dressing has been distributed evenly and you can’t see any more steam rising from the rice. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.

Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, and re-hydrated wasabi to form a dipping sauce.

Sear fish on medium-high heat in a skillet greased with 2 tsp oil (I like sesame) for 10-30 seconds on each side. To serve, place on top of rice and sprinkle with seaweed (optional). Serve with homemade pickled ginger slices (recipe below) and soy dipping sauce.

wild-arctic-char-chirashi-sushi-rice-homemade-pickled-ginger-2

Scattered fish on sushi rice from sushi leftovers
While I usually abhor the microwave, it’s much better at reheating sushi rice than the oven or a pot. The consistency is better. To make maki from leftover rice, reheat it this way and then cool it again before rolling. For this recipe, eat it warm.

2 cups leftover sushi rice
8-15 slices (or whatever you have) of leftover raw fish, cut sashimi style (see above)
1 tsp toasted sesame seeds (or toast sesame seeds for 3-5 minutes in a small skillet over medium heat, shaking every minute so they don’t burn. They should turn dark golden brown), optional but make a big difference
1 tbsp unseasoned seaweed flakes (laver or dulse). Check the ingredients. Often these packages contain MSG, wheat (soy sauce), or sweeteners you probably don’t want.

Directions: place leftover rice on plate and cover with a second plate or a microwave-safe lid. Microwave on high for 1 minute. Place sashimi on top, recover, and microwave on high 1 minute longer. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and seaweed.

Homemade Pickled Ginger
adapted from My Darling Lemon Thyme

Homemade ginger is so easy I’ll never buy the canned stuff again. It’s not going to be bright pink because the recipe doesn’t add any fake colouring or preservatives! There should be four ingredients in pickled ginger, but if you find a bottle of it at the grocery store, you’ll notice that it’s jammed full of other non-delicious things…Same goes for wasabi. If you can find the fresh root (which is expensive) it’s worth the one-time splurge, but after that look for powders without colorants and preservatives. Some wasabi powders aren’t even made from wasabi! They’re made from horseradish, which is a different plant but has a similar head-numbing effect. But heck, so does too much ice cream, and it’s not wasabi either…

  • 70 grams fresh gingerroot (best to measure it, but it’s about 1/4 cup packed sliced ginger or 3 inches of a whole gingerroot, approximately)
  • 3/4 teaspoons fine sea salt
  • 3 tbsp rice vinegar
  • 3 tbsp water
  • 2 tbsp sugar, preferably organic cane sugar

Peel the ginger using a spoon, scraping the skin off. Slice the ginger into thin slices using a sharp knife. I usually freeze my ginger which makes this step easier. the ginger slices made fold in on themselves but it wont matter once they’re in the brine. Place in a bowl with the salt. Use your hands to thoroughly mix the ginger and salt.

Sterilize two 125mL or one 250mL glass jar (wash in soapy water, rinse and then place in the oven for 20 minutes at 225F, or run them through the dishwasher). Turn off oven and leave the jars in there until you’re ready to use them.

 

It’s Always Sunny in Lima: Community Gardens, Snowflakes, and Spring Springing

strawberry-bushes

“Congratulations,” said a less-than-enthusiastic female voice. “You have a community garden spot. If you wish to confirm your spot come to our office at…”

I waited three years to hear those words. That was the phone message I received a few weeks ago from my local municipal borough office informing me that after sitting on a wait list for what used to be my local garden, I would finally be getting a plot. I’ve moved three times since then. It’s not my local garden anymore, but I’m sure as heck going to garden there while I wait another three years for a transfer to the other community garden adjacent to my current home.

All this to say I’m going to have my own garden! After living in spaces without even a balcony for container gardens of herbs (or Montreal’s favourite past-time – tomatoes), I have a 10′ x 20′ piece of land to call my very own. And since the season of growth has finally sprung, I’m finally emotionally able to talk about winter – now that I can write that without shuddering and reaching for a thermal blanket and a cup of hot water to warm my frigid bones.

Because this winter I cheated. And Montreal got angry at my sneakiness and fought back with blowing winds and metres of snow. I went to Peru for two months and lived in their 30 C+ daily heaven of summer complete with exotic fruit, palm trees and a breathtaking coastline. And when I came back to Montreal at the beginning of March I got the wind knocked out me both emotionally and physically by the cold, hard lifestyle here. Everyone I saw was sneezing and coughing and never smiling. Even the snowboarders seemed miserable. Everyone seemed unhealthy. And more importantly, everyone seemed unhappy.

Not that everyone in Lima was happy, but it felt a lot sunnier. The fact that it never rains probably made a difference on morale too. Televisions are placed outside, for goodness sake, and homes have flat roofs since snow doesn’t need to slide off of them.

So I asked myself how to make myself happier in the cold. I only had to get through one to two months of this before spring would spring. I’d somehow done it for years, so it shouldn’t be too hard.

How did I do it before?

…Three years ago I made a plan. I was seeing a good guy at the time, the kind of guy who goes out of his way to help you. Together we’d fixed up my bike (mostly him) and turned me into a street-smart biker. We’d installed coat hooks at the first apartment I ever felt was my own. We’d looked up Japanese recipes and made meals together in his small kitchen, then sat down at the table he’d made, his dog at our feet. We watched the city grow from his front steps that summer.

But with winter coming, I desperately started looking for a way to not have an anxiety attack about how cold it would be and how much I didn’t want to go through it all again. I came up with a plan.

“The first time it snows, I’m going to call you and we’re going to go outside together. I’m going to hold your hand and we’re going to walk through the giant, fluffy flakes, and it’ll be romantic. And then winter won’t seem so bad.”

He agreed, and when it snowed for the first time that year, that’s exactly what we did. And I survived for one more year.

But we didn’t make it to next year together, and winter turned back into a scary, intimidating time full of dry hands, chapped lips, shoulder tensed against the cold, sinus headaches, long-johns, insulated boots and layers of clothing whose capacity to retain heat was equal only to its ability to inhibit joy.

Returning from Lima was more difficult than staying in Montreal all winter. When you don’t know what you’re missing you can be blissfully ignorant, but when you know that so may people are fanning themselves in the heat, on beaches eating cremoladas and popsicles, gorging themselves on mangoes, and going out in the evening without sweaters, or jackets, or toques, the world seems unfair.

Why are we here? Why do we stay. “Get away!” my whole body was yelling. “Go back!” It may also have a lot to do with the fact that I’d met a guy there with whom I would have happily walked under a sky of snowflakes, but with whom I more happily walked under a wall of water.

But that’s life. You get through. You adapt, sometimes less easily than others. Today I went outside without a sweater. The sun shone on my bare shoulders and I smiled. When I touched the hot brick of an apartment building, feeling the heat emanating from it, a man stared at me. As he walked by I blushed, but I heard him say matter-of-factly to his friend, “The brick is so warm now.” Everyone here feels it. Last week we were wearing parkas. They understand these strange acts of appreciation for the sun and the season. We made it. We earned it. I skipped out on two moths of it, but I think I feel it just as much as those who were here the whole time. The feeling is intensified by contrast. I know what we’re missing. But the city gets to spend the next six months making it up to us.

tomatoes

And when I pull the first thing from my garden, I’ll smile. My first tomato may cause a tear or two. Tears of joy – the same feeling of knowing that it’s going to be okay.

A warm, comforting hand to hold, walking with you, telling you you’re going to be just fine.

 

 

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